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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.